“I am a fanatic for big waves. I just can’t resist them and the urge to paddle out and try to ride the biggest waves of all is the most compelling thing in my life, the most moving challenge I know.”
“With Your Whole Heart Jumping”
Help us to complete the source, original and additional information
Bob Pike (surfer) 6
Australian surfer 1940–1999Related quotes

Glen Burns (1983), Great Poets Howl: A Study of Allen Ginsberg's Poetry, 1943-1955, Peter Lang GmbH, ISBN 3-8204-7761-6.
Great Poets Howl

Unsourced

Song lyrics, Aerial (2005), A Sea of Honey (Disc 1)

Short Drive, Sweet Chariot (1966)
Context: I am interested in madness. I believe it is the biggest thing in the human race, and the most constant. How do you take away from a man his madness without also taking away his identity? Are we sure it is desirable for a man's spirit not to be at war with itself, or that it is better to be serene and ready to go to dinner than to be excited and unwilling to stop for a cup of coffee, even?

De Abaitua interview (1998)
Context: The magician to some degree is trying to drive him or herself mad in a controlled setting, within controlled laws. You ask the protective spirits to look after you, or whatever. This provides a framework over an essentially amorphous experience. You are setting up your terms, your ritual, your channels – but you deliberately stepping over the edge into the madness. You are not falling over the edge, or tripping over the edge.
When I was a kid, I used to go to the seaside and play in the waves. The thing you learn about waves, is that when you see a big one coming, you run towards it. You try and get out of its way and you’ll end up twenty yards up the beach covered in scratches. Dive into it, and then you can get behind it. You get on top it, you won’t be hurt. It is counter-intuitive, the impulse is to run away, but the right thing to do is to plunge into it deliberately, and be in control when you do it. Magic is a response to the madness of the twentieth century.

Accepting the position of leader of the anti-slavery campaign.
William Wilberforce (2007)

2007: Rob Enderle's take on the Apple iPhone http://youtube.com/watch?v=0AhtXAHECVo in YouTube (25 January 2007)

Source: The Gospel of Sri Ramakrishna (1942), p. 385
Context: The waves belong to the Ganges, not the Ganges to the waves. A man cannot realize God unless he gets rid of all such egotistic ideas as "I am such an important man" or "I am so and so". Level the mound of "I" to the ground by dissolving it with tears of devotion.